The pump on a concrete pad beside a Melbourne house is almost always a jet or centrifugal pump on a shallow well. It's what runs most sprinkler systems in town. These pumps are simple, and easy to reach, and the same few things go wrong with them over and over.
Call (321) 220-9883The usual faults
- Lost prime. The pump runs but moves no water. Air is getting in through a cracked fitting, a bad union, a leaking check valve or a falling water level.
- Hum, no spin. A failed start capacitor or a motor seized from sitting.
- Weak zones. A clogged suction screen, a worn impeller, or one zone too many for the pump.
- Leaking shaft seal. Water dripping from between the motor and pump body. Leave it and it rusts the motor bearings.
- Pump relay problems. The timer calls for water but the pump never gets the signal.
What a repair visit covers
The contractor checks power and the pump start relay, tests the capacitor and motor, then works the suction side: fittings, check or foot valve and screen. Seals, capacitors, relays and valves are routine replacements. If the pump end is worn out, it's a replacement.
Keep it running longer
- Don't let it run dry. If it loses prime, turn it off.
- Keep the pad clear and the motor shaded and dry where you can.
- If sprinklers leave orange stains, ask about iron. It also coats valves and screens.
- Stick to your watering days. Fewer hours means less wear.
Common questions
Why does my sprinkler pump keep losing prime?
There's an air leak on the suction side or a check valve that won't hold. Re-priming treats the symptom; finding the leak fixes it.
Water is dripping from the middle of the pump. Is that bad?
It's usually the shaft seal. It's a routine repair, and worth doing before water gets into the motor bearings.
My timer runs but the pump doesn't. What's wrong?
Often the pump start relay or its wiring, not the pump. A contractor can test both.