Well Pump Replacement in Melbourne, FL

A replacement pump that's the wrong size is a slow problem: zones that never quite reach the edge of the lawn, a pump that runs hot, or one that short cycles itself to death. Getting the match right matters more than the brand on the label.

When replacing beats repairing

• The motor is burnt out, shorted or seized.
• Output has dropped from wear even though the pump still runs.
• The pump housing is cracked or badly corroded.
• It's been rebuilt before and is failing again.
• It was never the right size for the well or for the number of zones.

What gets matched

• Well type and depth. Shallow wells usually take an above-ground jet or centrifugal pump; deeper wells take a submersible.
• Flow and pressure. For irrigation, the biggest zone sets the target; for a house, it's fixtures running at once.
• Electrical supply. Voltage, wire size and how the pump is started (relay, timer or pressure switch).
• Tank and switch. A new pump on a dead tank is money wasted. They're checked together.

The job itself

For an above-ground pump, it's usually a few hours: disconnect, set the new pump on its pad, re-plumb, prime, wire and test every zone or fixture. A submersible means pulling the drop pipe and wire from the well, which takes more time and gear. Either way, you should see the system cycle and hold pressure before the contractor leaves, and the old pump goes with them.

Before you agree to a new pump

Ask what failed and how they know. A capacitor or pressure switch can mimic a dead pump. The contractors we use test before they sell. If it can be repaired sensibly, they'll say so. See well pump repair.